
About the
Ball Python
COMMON NAMES:
Ball Python, Royal Python
SCIENTIFIC NAME:
Python Regius Average Size: 3′ to 5′ Medium Bodied
DIET:
Rodents TEMPS: 80-84 F w/ basking 88-94 F
HUMIDITY:
50%-60%
LIFESPAN:
20-30 + years in captivity
Ball pythons (python regius) are a relatively small, thick-bodied species of python featuring a slender neck
and well differentiated head. Common “wild-type” ball pythons are highly variable in color and pattern, but
all feature some version of tan markings on a chocolate or black background, edged with varying degrees
of white, with white bellies that may or may not contain some dark speckling pattern. Thanks to the efforts
of breeders and enthusiasts, however, ball pythons are becoming increasingly available in a wide range of
brilliant colors and patterns called “morphs.”
Ball pythons are found in the wild in central and west Africa and typically make their homes in abandoned
rodent burrows or termite mounds. Their common name “ball” comes from their tendency to curl up into a
ball and hide their head within their coils when threatened. This un-aggressive defense mechanism,
combined with their manageable size and ready availability make them extremely popular in the pet
industry.
IMPORTANT:
All advice given in this care sheet comes from 20+ years of keeping, breeding and altogether working with
these animals. It is especially important to practice proper husbandry in order to ensure the health and
wellbeing of the animal. All advice given is solely that of HSR.
While we recommend the following advice, we also understand that there are different ways to successfully
raise these animals. This care sheet is simply based off the successful practices that we ourselves have
used over the years.
The most popular and convenient methods of housing ball pythons include plastic tubs or
professionally built enclosures. Although most pet stores will push fish tanks for your new pet,
we would suggest avoiding fish tanks altogether. They do not hold heat and humidity very well
without some sort of modification, the clear sides all around may make a shy ball python feel
exposed/insecure and more escapes happen in fish tanks than any other type of housing. We
also recommend staying away from heat bulbs. There are better heat sources on the market
these days that will not suck all the humidity out of the air, break into dangerous pieces or
burn/injure your animal.
The following are necessities to aid in the proper care of a ball python:
• proper ventilation • thermal gradient • proper humidity levels
• sufficient space without being too large
• security to prevent escape
SIZING
For juvenile BPs up to 2’ in length, a floor space of 24’X24” is adequate. For adults, an enclosure
36” L x 24” D x 12” H will provide them with enough room for the entirety of their lives. 48” L x 24”
D x 12” H is also a good size and comes in handy for the occasional BP that likes to push the
larger limits. This will typically be your females. When it comes to a proper enclosure size always
remember, bigger is NOT better when it comes to BP’s.
HIDING
Ball pythons are typically shy and reclusive nocturnal
animals and appreciate a good dark place to curl up
and feel safe. It is best to provide two adequate hides
in your BPs enclosure. One on the warm end and one
on the cooler end so that it does not have to make a
choice between regulating its body temperature and
feeling secure (to their own detriment these snakes will
sacrifice warmth in favor of a hide).
Use of plastic storage tubs (usually by Sterilite or Rubbermaid) has become an increasingly popular option over the years which is cost effective and very functional. Their lighter weight makes cleaning quite easy, and multiple tubs can be stacked in rack systems to hold multiple animals in a relatively small space. Holes for ventilation can be made in the plastic using an inexpensive soldering iron and can be placed strategically to allow vertical air movement and cross-ventilation. The downside is that these plastics lack the true transparency available in glass front enclosures and this can be an aesthetic downside for some.
Professional level snake enclosures can be purchased through our web site, Facebook business page or Instagram and come fully assembled. Many of these can be ordered with custom features such as Radiant Heat Panels (RHP’s) heat tape (for racks), ventilation and lighting options as well as featuring great visibility and a furniture quality look/style. Custom built enclosures are excellent for the animals’ heat and humidity requirements and take much less effort in maintaining said requirements.
IMPORTANT: Remove large, jagged pieces
Cypress mulch is an inexpensive substrate that is highly popular in the reptile world. It can be found at many local nurseries. It helps to maintain heat and humidity levels much better than anything on the market and will always be our top recommendation due to little effort being required to maintain those levels. Just be sure your choice of Cypress mulch is not blended with any of the dangerous wood types listed above. Cypress mulch may or may not need to be pre-treated for wood mites before use. While wood mites are harmless and can not harm your animal, they can be a nuisance.
Premium Coconut Substrate
Another good choice for maintaining heat and humidity levels. Some effort required to maintain levels.
Old school, yet reliable
Paper towels use as a substrate has been a practice in use for decades. Simple and effective but not aesthetically pleasing. Also requires more work to maintain heat and humidity levels.
Harder to maintain
Carpet can be a petri dish for bacteria and while eating, teeth may get snagged on it. For these reasons we do not recommend it.
Wood shavings
Aspen is very dry and dusty and has been known to cause breathing issues. It requires a lot of work to maintain heat and humidity levels when using aspen. In our professional opinion, this substrate is much better suited for use with mammals.
In almost all cases, a ball python refuses to eat due to husbandry issues. Especially a young one. If your snake misses more than 2-3 meals (as mentioned earlier, sometimes they will not want to eat while in shed) please check the following possible causes:
No hides or hides that are too large or exposed (i.e.: half logs). They prefer dark, tight hides they barely fit into. Also, if the enclosure is too large, or too open (glass) or in a high traffic area with a lot of loud noise or movement. Another snake in the same enclosure can also cause serious security issues. It is ALWAYS best to not cohabitate.
Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.
Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regimen. If this occurs, it is especially important to pay attention to the animals’ weight. A dramatic decrease in weight is a sign of something wrong.
Enjoy your new pet and remember to practice proper husbandry 😊